Amritsar. The Golden City.

Amristar. Literally meaning 'The Pool of Immortality'. And for Sikhs, the holiest place on Earth. Home to the Golden Temple and thousands of friendly pilgrims, Amristar took my breath away. It is by far the most welcoming and humbling city that I have ever visited.

In a surreal twist, we began our stay in Amritsar with a visit to the Pakistani border. Even looking at the map made me excited - 2800km from Tangutur - but as we drove closer  to the border overtaking more and more illegal rickshaws jammed full of Indian families, we knew that the border closing ceremony was going to be something special. Being the Indian residents that we are, we avoided taking the easy tourist route and pushed our way into the very muddy ladies' queue (yes, it was raining!). After lots of pushing, shoving and a lady throwing up rather dramatically, we finally made it through the entrance gates. All around us, the women started running towards the stadium to secure the best seats for their families. We made it all the way through security, where we were ushered into a very rough single file line by soldiers on horses, and up to the stadium before we were pulled aside, body searched a second time and told to go and sit in the 'Foreigners' Gallery'. Well I guess it was worth a try. 

Watching the ceremony unfold, I literally felt my eyes widen and my mouth drop. The atmosphere in the stadium was incredible. Every seat was taken and still more people craned their necks at the gates. Before long, the music started, and of course the dancing. Strangely, it was only women and children that were allowed to dance. Normally, in festivals and celebrations, it is only the men who take part and it was amazing how different the atmosphere was with the women (men were whistled at by armed soldiers if they did so much as to stand up). Instead of feeling slightly exposed and insecure, I felt a smile spread my cheeks and I automatically wanted to get up and dance with them.  I joined in with the chanting of "Vande Matram" and "Hindustan", which were of course responded to by a slightly less enthusiastic Pakistani crowd. Next thing we knew, a queue had formed and women and children were taking it in turns to run up to the border gate with India flags before quickly (or in some cases slowly for those who were out of breath) retreating. Again, my mouth dropped. I mean, this is Pakistan we're talking about. Pakistan and India. Only a couple of weeks ago I was waving an India flag in a dance in our anniversary function, whilst all of my pupils pretended to shoot each other in India-Pakistan conflicts. But apparently the border closing ceremony is a friendly affair. I'm still undecided if I agree with this, having heard the Wagah Border being referred to as the 'Berlin Wall of Asia' and seeing first hand the competitiveness between the two sides - the soldiers literally ran in an attempt to reach the border first. At the same time, I can see how it is all just a big evening of entertainment put on by the soldiers for the hundreds of visitors who fill the specially built stadiums each night. The high leg kicks certainly were impressive!

Taking our seats in the Foreigners' Gallery

Mexican waves in the crowds

Carnival feel in Amritsar

Team India

Running to the border with the flag

On the way down from a high kick!

Beginning of the ceremony

Racing to the border

Racing the flag back to Indian territory 

Pakistani and Indian soldiers completing the border closing ceremony

As the sun was setting, we headed back to Amristar and entered the Golden Temple for the first time, depositing our shoes and donning our headscarves before entering. After the excitement of the border, it was calming to walk expectantly with the flow of pilgrims towards our destination. Our first viewing of the Guruwada was stunning. More impressive than I could have imagined. It took a good few minutes for us to again close our mouths and step aside to allow others to pray. We walked around clockwise in a stunned silence, trying to take it all in, before stopping and sitting cross legged by the water to marvel at the pounds of gold reflecting into the water. The Pool of Immortality. 

The Golden Temple is free to enter. For a poor volunteer teacher this makes a nice change from having to pay the Rs250 foreigner rate at every site (although waving my residential permit and shouting "volunteer" is proving quite successful in securing the Rs10 Indian ticket), but it's more than that. It represents an amazing part of Sikhism, it's acceptance of all. Upon arrival, we were immediately told to go to take meals in the Free Kitchen and take rest in the Foreigners' Dorm, and on every visit to the Temple - where we spent hours sat in thought - we were approached by families, men, women and inquisitive children, not only wanting photos, but wanting to chat. And for the first time, I didn't feel suspicious of single Indian men or annoyed by swarms of Indian children. I wanted to talk, take photos, and discuss life, religion, culture. In just a few days, Sikhism got to me. Inspired me. It seems so accepting of people. Different people. From different castes, cultures and countries. And as I'm writing this blog post, I find myself googling Sikhism, wanting to know the meaning behind the words. Guruwada, Guru Granth Sahib, Amrit, Nam, Sangat, Parshad... 

Setting up camp in the foreigners' dorm!

Hitching up our Punjab pants to wash our feet

This photo really does not sum up the free kitchen. I cannot explain the sound of thousands of plates being washed up by an army of volunteers and the efficiency at which tens of thousands of pilgrims are fed 24 hours a day. The kitchen serves curry and chapattis to anyone who comes to sit in the long dining hall - and if you want more chapattis you have to cup your hands and wait for one to be dropped into them. Imagine Oliver-esque "I want some more", but with no fear about being turned down!

Up at dawn on our final day to see the temple in a different light.